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Frequently Asked Questions

What is so special about beeswax over other waxes?

It's all about the density of the wax and the burn temperature.  Higher density means longer burn time.  Beeswax generally melts at higher temperatures than soy or paraffin.  It's also more eco-friendly than paraffin or soy because it occurs as wax naturally.  Paraffin is derived from petroleum, and soy wax is created by treating soybean oil with hydrogen.

Do you produce your own wax from your own hive?

At present, we do not have our own beehives, but are hoping to change this in the future.  We currently do not have a specific supplier for our wax.  When supplies run low, we scour the web to find the cheapest American sources of wax available.  We do not (knowingly) order Chinese beeswax, as it is often diluted with other waxes and/or may have been stored in lead barrels.

Why does my candle have a white powdery look on the surface?

As any beeswax aficionado knows, this is a normal characteristic of beeswax known as "bloom."  It is generally regarded as a sign of authenticity.  If your candle does not have this yet, it is a sign that it was poured somewhat recently.  If you don't burn your candle, the bloom will generally start to develop in about six to nine months.  It does not affect the burning or quality of the candle.  For non-container candles, this generally adds a desirable aged look.

How do you scent your candles?

After melting the wax, we mix in scented oil.  Due to the slower burn time of beeswax, we add more scent than recommended by our supplier so that it lasts over the life of the candle.

How do you dye your candles?

Similar to adding scent, we add dye while the wax is melted.  Our "Natural" scent has no dye added - it's just straight wax.  If you're ordering a scent and don't want any dye added, you can specify this during checkout.
Because we do relatively small batches of candles at a time, color variation may occur from one order to the next.

Do you use zinc or other metals in your wicks?

No.  Zinc fumes are actually well-known in the metal industry to be toxic, despite their popularity with other candle makers.  Our wicks are either pure cotton braids, or cotton braids with paper filaments.  This is the primary reason our candles aren't smokey.  (We also use wood wicks on jar candles when the "Campfire Smoke" scent is selected.)

How do I prevent "tunneling?"

Tunneling is when the candle burns down the center without melting the wax on the edges. This can cause a lot of wasted wax, and can even cause the wick to "drown" in its own wax pool, greatly reducing the life of the candle. To prevent this, always burn the candle until the wax pool reaches the edges, at least within a quarter of an inch. The amount of time this takes depends on the candle size, but usually a couple hours.

Do you have any general recommendations for preserving/extending candle fragrance?

For best fragrance longevity, order jar candles. Pillars, candlesticks, and votives loose their fragrance quickly since it's able to evaporate much more easily. When you are done burning a jar candle, place the lid back on the jar until next time to prevent fragrance from slowly evaporating while not in use.

I would like to re-use the candle jar after it's all burned up. How do I clean it out?

First, remove the metal wick holder at the bottom by digging it out with a butter knife, then place the jar in a microwave until all the wax has melted. Watch it carefully, and remove it once the wax has melted. If it stays in very long once all the wax has melted, it has a high chance of catching on fire. (If this happens, promptly place the lid on the jar to smother the flame.) Dump the excess wax into a container. Plastic cups generally work fine, but this may depend on the quality of the plastic. Heat a container of water (bigger than the jar) to boiling, and carefully submerge the jar in the container. Any wax remaining in the jar should rise to the surface of the water as it cools. Once you see hard wax on the surface of the water, and the water has cooled, remove and discard the wax. Inspect the jar to ensure it has no wax residue is left inside. If so, repeat the process. Do not attempt to speed up the cooling process with ice or refrigeration because this will inhibit the wax from rising to the surface.

Do you have any other products planned for the future?

Yes! Not only are we planning to add more decorative candles to our product line, we are also planning on branching out into altogether different products. See our "About Us" page for more information.

Are your oil lamps convertible between electric and oil?

While we don't (yet) sell the parts to do this, any oil lamp can be converted to electric. Many electric lamps can be converted to oil/kerosene as well, but some may require modification. Generally, if the wiring comes out the side of the burner, it is likely the electric burner can be replaced with an oil burner of the same style. Always check the font (the base of the lamp that would normally hold oil) for leaks by removing it from the assembly, including any wiring, and filling it with water. If it holds water, it will hold kerosene.

Why do you have the option for oil and electric on most of your lamps, but can only select one of the two?

Some of our lamps arrive pre-assembled from the manufacturer as either electric or kerosene. We plan to have both options on all of our lamps in the future.

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